How Your Guns Suffer
Wear in Storage
We have the will to outlast everything!
Knowing how to safely store your guns long-term is a
critical skill every prepper must have. Even though your handguns and long guns
have protective finishes, time and the elements can take their toll if your
guns are left unattended without proper cleaning and storage techniques.
Let’s look at how to properly store your guns long-term.
First, we need to know how a gun suffers wear and tear from sitting:
You just finished building your AR-15 with an 80 percent lower, or you just picked up that awesome new lever-action. It looked great a few months ago when you oiled it up, wiped it down, and set it in the gun safe after a day at the range.
But now your gun’s showing some signs of pitting on the finish. There might be a little rust in the muzzle. Maybe the trigger or magazine release feels sticky, or that shiny Walnut stock’s stain started to bubble. What caused this?
Even if your gun’s stored in a gun safe and wiped down with oil, moisture in the air can still slowly penetrate and rust the metal underneath the finish. Most gun oils aren’t designed for long-term storage and evaporate after a period, leaving your gun unprotected.
Simple logic says oil will protect a gun. Your hands and
digits naturally produce oil that transfers to the metal and wood on your gun.
Even though you may think handling your guns with your bare hands won’t cause
issues, it could.
The oils your skin produces also contain acidic compounds that can, over time, slowly break down anodized, parkerized, or blued finishes. If left unattended and contaminated, even stainless steel will begin to show signs of rusting.
Most guns suffer tiny scratches and blemishes from handling and firing. Even though these imperfections might not be so obvious at first glance, long-term storage can allow these imperfections to develop rust and corrosion and grow into a bigger problem.
Even though you thought you thoroughly cleaned your gun
before storage, there are likely some contaminants – grime, dirty oil, fouling
from cartridges – that are present. If left to sit, these contaminants will eat
away at your gun’s finish, metal, and components.
Now we know the four primary causes of rust and wear on guns
being stored long-term. We’ll address problem #1 later by figuring out the best
storage method. Let’s look at how to prep our guns first, by eliminating issues
#2, 3, and 4:
No gun should be stored long-term if it hasn’t been
disassembled and thoroughly cleaned first. You need to remove all copper, brass
and carbon fouling, dirt, old oil, and any moisture in all the nooks and crannies of your gun.
Most off-the-shelf gun cleaning solvents aren’t that effective
for long-term storage cleaning. Some include lubricants and oils in the
formula, but this reduces the effectiveness of the solvent. We don’t want to
use solvent-oil combos. We’ll instead be using a long-term protective coating
that doesn’t evaporate or break down.
To ensure all oil and copper/carbon fouling is totally removed, you’ll need a strong ammonia-based cleaner. We recommend Sweet’s 7.62 Bore Cleaning Solvent or GunSlick Foaming Bore Cleaner. All product recommendations in this guide are not sponsored and are based on personal experience only.
If using either of these cleaners, it’s advised to let them
sit and penetrate the metal for a few minutes before removing the solvents
entirely. GunSlick Cleaner will foam up and expand, filling all your gun’s
tight spaces that you can’t reach with a brush.
These solvents are incredibly powerful. If left unattended,
they can eat away your gun’s finish or metal. We recommend rinsing and wiping
down with isopropyl alcohol to remove any remaining solvent after cleaning.
Most bore brushes and gun cleaning kits include brass rods
and brushes for removing contaminants in the bore and receiver. These brushes
and rods also leave brass metal deposits when used, which contaminates the bore
further.
You should only use a bore brush and cleaning rod that is
made of steel. It’s preferable to invest in one that has a plastic coating, so
the steel rod doesn’t damage your rifling. We recommend using cotton patches,
and the same solvents describe above to clean your bore thoroughly.
Hoppe’s #9 is a great range-day lubricant, but we need
something a little more robust for long-term protection.
There are plenty of different long-term coatings on the
market that can be categorized into a few types: Synthetic dry film coatings,
lithium grease, Cosmoline, and oil.
Picking one of these protecting coatings means deciding how
long you want your gun stored for, and whether you’ll have to clean it or prep
it before firing it. Grease and Cosmoline may require some removal, but these
coatings can be used to store guns for years at a time without inspection or
maintenance.
Guns treated with a dry film or oil will need occasional
maintenance and reapplication, but they can be fired immediately without any prep,
wiping down, or cleaning after storage.
Eezox is a synthetic, dry-film protective coating. It
applies wet and takes a few hours to set and dry. Once dried, Eezox protects
without re-application for at least 3 months. It’s recommended to apply one
additional coating every 90 days.
Eezox doesn’t have to be wiped down or removed before
firing. This makes it a great choice for those who occasionally check on their
stored guns and want the ability to use them in a hurry when needed.
Birchwood Casey Barricade is a long-term oil coating that
doesn’t break down. It’s applied using an aerosol can, making long-term storage
incredibly simple. Barricade also partially dries once cured, allowing
additional coatings to be applied. Some users report having allowed guns to be
stored for up to 8 months without rust, though we still recommend inspecting
and reapplying every 90 days.
This gun grease is currently in use by the U.S. Military,
and it makes for a great long-term protective coating. TW25B is rated to protect
at temperatures ranging between -90 (F) and +450 (F), making it perfect for
guns being stored outside or in a non-climate-controlled setting.
If applied properly, a gun being stored long-term with TW25B
doesn’t need to be cleaned or prepped before firing. This grease is on the
pricier side – costing around $18 for a 1.5-ounce tube – but just a few small
dabs are enough to sufficiently coat an entire gun for storage.
Ever go to a gun show and find the guy selling all those pristine
Russian WWII rifles? If you pried open a crate and saw a bunch of brand-new
Mosin Nagants from 1942, you’ve seen just how effective Cosmoline is at
protecting guns long-term.
If you’re the prepper who wants to go full apocalypse and
safely bury your guns deep down for 20 years, this is the protective coating
you need.
Cosmoline is a waxy, petroleum-based coating. The U.S.
Military also still uses Cosmoline to protect equipment and vehicles that are
stored outside in harsh conditions.
Although not directly advertised for firearms, Cosmoline Weathershed Industrial Grade Spray will be a top choice. It applies as an amber, waxy coating that feels dry once cured. It can be applied to metal, polymer, and wood without issue.
Once applied, Cosmoline completely seals your gun in what’s
called an “anaerobic” environment – an environment completely sealed from open
air and moisture. Cosmoline only needs to be applied once and your gun can be
stored permanently.
Before firing, your gun will need to be cleaned with solvent
and stripped of Cosmoline. This material is so thick that it can gum up your
operating rod, gas system, or trigger assembly, preventing your gun from
cycling.
Once you’ve cleaned and coated your gun, you’ll need a good
long-term storage container. There are a few options many preppers stick to,
and some we don’t recommend:
Regardless of your storage method, we strongly recommend
investing in some silicone gun socks. With silicone added, these gun socks will
further prevent moisture and help to seal out contaminants and air. They’ll
also prevent scratching and marring.
With the right cleaning and coating, storing your guns
long-term in a regular gun safe is a perfect choice. Many gun safes are
well-insulated, and most do a good job of preventing moisture from getting in.
If you do opt for a gun safe or closet, we still recommend
investing in some form of de-humidification. The gun safe market already has
plenty of miniature de-humidifiers available. Disposable silica gel packs are
an affordable alternative, too.
Sealed rifle and handgun cases provide even more protection
from moisture and the environment than a gun safe. Many cases (especially
storage solutions from Pelican) are rated to be waterproof and shock-proof.
Investing in a quality sealed case for every gun can get expensive, so we
recommend this storage solution if you have deeper pockets or are only storing
one or two guns.
Some preppers have even vacuum-sealed their guns for decades-long
storage. Vacuum sealing is incredibly effective at protecting your guns only if
all moisture and air is removed from
the bag. If you want to go to great lengths to hide and protect your guns,
vacuum-sealing with the right bags will allow you to store them outside (even
buried) without worry.
If you vacuum-seal your guns, we recommend sticking with
lithium grease or Cosmoline for your protective coating, as oils could be
pulled out of your gun’s nooks and crannies during vacuum-sealing. We also recommend
investing in some small silica gel packs and placing them inside the bag with
your gun. This will help to absorb any moisture that might be left over.
Here’s the short-n-‘sweet:
This article has been written by Travis Noonan for Prepper’s Will.
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As soon as I saw your list of products to protect firearms, and it began with Eesox and included Birchwood Casey’s Barricade- I smiled. Oils aren’t really good because most oils float on water. Release the tension on springs, for firing pin springs this can be done by squeezing the trigger while the action is open. Open foam gun cases, these will hold water if it is present like from the sprinkle that was starting when you were leaving the range. Firearms safety courses at one time taught students to never plug a barrel and store guns horizontally if possible. This allowed better air circulation and prevented lubricants from following the rules of gravity and pooling in wood stocks resulting in many doubles with broken pistol grips. Being raised in in the northern part of MN where it was less humid people cleaned their deer rifles and put them away until next year. Having spent the last 50 years in southern MN, such behavior will eventually catch up to you with unfavorable results. Silicone stuff sacks work well.
I vacuum seal some of my guns and use an oxygen absorber. I also use Johnson paste wax to seal both some of my guns and metal tools in my workshop. I use a cheap chip brush to apply and remove the excess with a rag when I need to use them. The paste wax leaves a protective film even when wiped off. I also use paste wax on my table saw top, router table top, etc not only to protect but to also give a smooth finish for the wood to slide on. Rub the paste wax on, let it dry and polish off the excess. Repeat three time at first and reapply as needed there after.
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