Optimum Soil pH Levels for Trees, Shrubs, Vegetables, and Flowers

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What is your soil’s pH level? Every plant prefers a different level of acidity. Use this soil pH chart to find which pH level is best for your garden plants. Then, learn how to adjust it accordingly!

Having the right soil pH is key to growing a healthy garden, but it’s a factor that’s often overlooked in favor of nutrient levels and soil consistency. While these are also crucial things to consider, the pH of the soil plays a major role in how well your plants can absorb the nutrients you provide them, so it’s important to get it right!

The wrong pH often won’t kill plants outright, but it can affect their growth and result in subpar blooms or crops, depending on how sensitive the plant is. In actuality, many plants are able to adapt to a range of pH levels. Hydrangeas, for example, produce different colored flowers depending on whether they’re grown in acidic or alkaline soil.

A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens, since most plants thrive in the 6.0 to 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral) range. Some plants (blueberries, azaleas) prefer more acidic soil, while a few (ferns, asparagus) do best in soil that is neutral to slightly alkaline.

How do you find out your soil pH? To do a simple pH test, you can acquire a soil pH test kit online or from a local garden store. However, for a similar cost (or even for free), you may be able to have your soil tested by your state Cooperative Extension, which can provide a much more in-depth analysis of your soil (including nutrient levels and other helpful bits of information). 

Here’s another way to figure out your soil type.

Once you figure out your soil pH, it may be necessary to adjust it to suit the needs of the plants you’re growing. The level of acidity will specify the amount of soil amendment that is needed to bring it up or down to the appropriate level. Acidic (“sour”) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone or wood ash, and alkaline (“sweet”) soil is typically treated with gypsum (calcium sulfate), ground sulfur, or compost.

Read more about preparing soil for planting.

Trees and Shrubs

Vegetables

Flowers

Learn more about testing your garden’s soil.

Submitted by Leslie on August 31, 2020 – 6:31am

Using Gypsum will raise the pH, so I am not sure why that was recommended to lower the pH for blueberry. One thing that works pretty well is to add coffee grounds to the soil, and also add regularly as side dressing. In Davis, California, we had really alkaline soil and coffee grounds in the garden seemed to do the trick. You can pick them up at coffee shops who are more than happy to give them away

Submitted by daniel on June 5, 2020 – 10:47pm

I have a question does the ph level of the soil modify the pg level of the plant, fruit or vegetables

Submitted by Bruce Roberts on April 22, 2020 – 1:45pm

Your listing of 6.0 – 7.5 for Petunias is incorrect. Petunias have a high Fe need and so should have a lower pH. Try 4.5 – 6.

I am the retired Director of Horticulture at the Mass. Horticultural Societky.

Submitted by The Editors on April 24, 2020 – 11:42am

Hi Bruce,

Thank you for the correction! We have updated the table.

Submitted by DHANISH PUTHYAV… on February 3, 2020 – 1:25pm

Please add more vegetable and fruit ph range, like onion, strawberry, orka(lady finger, mint, green chilly etc.

Submitted by Melanie on August 12, 2017 – 3:58pm

Hello,

I planted a young blueberry bush in my garden in the spring. It did wonderful right away and even produced blueberries after only a few months. For the past month or so though, the leaves have turned reddish, and there are no more fruits. At first, I thought the cottontail rabbit babies we had in the yard were the problem, but they have since grown up and moved on, and there is no apparent damage to the tronc or leaves themselves, besides the color of course. After researching the problem, I decided to test the pH of the soil and found it to be about 7.2. While this is good for the olive tree I planted nearby, it doesn’t seem to be ideal for the blueberries. But now that the shrub is planted and covered with a thick layer of mulch, and we are in late summer, how can I go about acidifying its soil? I thought of mixing a hydroponic acid solution with the water I use to water it. Would that work or do I need to change the soil entirely? Or worse, is the blueberry bush already dying?
(We live in Tennessee.)

Thank you!
Melanie

Submitted by The Editors on August 15, 2017 – 2:38pm

The blueberry is definitely struggling in the high pH soil. Your soil is too sweet; blueberries like it acidic. You can repair it. We would cease the hydroponic solution; honestly, we are not familiar with it in this application. Get gypsum, as mentioned above, or aluminum sulfate and sprinkle it on the soil. Work it in, and water. Mulch can be moved. Change yours to pine needles, if it is not. See more about bluebery bushes: https://www.almanac.com/plant/blueberries

Overall, depending on the proximity of the blueberry and olive, you may have to move one or chose a favorite. Or get a blueberry bush that will thrive in a pot.

Submitted by Brenda on September 4, 2017 – 3:54am

I don’t think it’s recommendable using any aluminum compounds on a patch where edibles are grown.

Submitted by The Editors on September 5, 2017 – 6:48pm

This is not harmful when used in vegetable gardens. The environmental concern, when it comes to aluminum, is in the process of making aluminum products. That is harmful to the environment. Also, when cooking, aluminum foil can leach into food when it’s heated up in a fire, on a grill, or on a stove, but not likely after one use. If it’s used multiple times to cook with, then it’s more likely. 

Submitted by mary on May 23, 2017 – 8:33pm

I have an area under my bay window that I like to plant some flowers in but for 2 years now as much as I remove these weeds and heavily tangled roots of some kind and turn the soil they keep coming back. Before I had any plants there I even tried a professional weed killer and still they came back. I now don’t want to use any strong chemical because I do have a beautiful Hibiscus at one end and in the middle I have a clematis I had for years and don’t want to lose them. I tried the black weed netting and the weeds just come thru it. Please help me by telling me what I can do once and for all to get rid of these weeds & roots. Thank you for any and all help.

Submitted by The Editors on May 24, 2017 – 4:28pm

Several inches of mulch tends to smother weeds. Here’s more on that aspect: http://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/mulching-guide-bene…

Some will pop through mulch. Look here for more advice on identifying and dealing with specific weeds: http://www.almanac.com/content/weed-control-how-reduce-weeds-your-garden and here: http://www.almanac.com/content/common-garden-weeds 

Your weeds will tell you a lot about your soil. See here: https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/gardening-advice/weeds-indicator-plants

Finally, you might find this video advice helpful (and maybe redundant): http://www.almanac.com/video/how-get-rid-weeds

Submitted by brett turnbull on June 18, 2016 – 11:31pm

my carrots have got like a rust ring around them and not sure if its a bug or a maggot that’s in my garden. what can I do about it and my ph is sitting around 7.5 – 8. do I need a fertilizer to bring ph down and, if so, what kind?

Submitted by The Editors on June 20, 2016 – 2:54pm

That maggot could be the larval stage of the Carrot Rust Fly, which is a fairly common pest with carrots. Control lies with knowing its life cycle and making cultural changes to discourage its growth next year. For example, planting later than the end of May will avoid the first generation of egg-laying flies. Also, harvest early and completely (leave no plant behind). A sprinkling of rock phosphate around the base of the plant might inhibit egg laying. Covering the plant with a floating row cover is highly recommended.

Submitted by Donna S. Ewing on October 25, 2015 – 12:05pm

Is putting the fall leaves on your garden for the winter good for your garden? We live in the river valley in Arkansas….

Submitted by The Editors on October 28, 2015 – 2:16am

Yes, there are many benefits to using leaves in the garden. Read our new article about this very topic here: http://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/gardening/value-leaves

Submitted by Tega Komori on March 1, 2015 – 3:54pm

this is going to be sweet

Submitted by Jack Willsonile on May 5, 2015 – 12:41am

Trees, Shrubs, Vegetables, and Flowers

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An accurate soil test will indicate your soil’s pH level will specify the amount of lime or sulfur that is needed to bring it up or down to the appropriate level. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens, since most plants thrive in the 6.0 to 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral) range. Some plants (blueberries, azaleas) prefer more strongly acidic soil, while a few (ferns, asparagus) do best in soil that is neutral to slightly alkaline. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with gypsum (calcium sulfate) or ground sulfur.

Common Name Optimum pH Range
Trees and Shrubs
Apple 5.0-6.5
Ash 6.0-7.5
Azalea 4.5-6.0
Basswood 6.0-7.5
Beautybush 6.0-7.5
Birch 5.0-6.5
Blackberry 5.0-6.0
Blueberry 4.0-6.0
Boxwood 6.0-7.5
Cherry, sour 6.0-7.0
Chestnut 5.0-6.5
Crab apple 6.0-7.5
Dogwood 5.0-7.0
Elder, box 6.0-8.0
Fir, balsam 5.0-6.0
Fir, Douglas 6.0-7.0
Hemlock 5.0-6.0
Hydrangea, blue-flowered 4.0-5.0
Hydrangea, pink-flowered 6.0-7.0
Juniper 5.0-6.0
Laurel, mountain 4.5-6.0
Lemon 6.0-7.5
Lilac 6.0-7.5
Maple, sugar 6.0-7.5
Oak, white 5.0-6.5
Orange 6.0-7.5
Peach 6.0-7.0
Pear 6.0-7.5
Pecan 6.4-8.0
Pine, red 5.0-6.0
Pine, white 4.5-6.0
Plum 6.0-8.0
Raspberry, red 5.5-7.0
Rhododendron 4.5-6.0
Spruce 5.0-6.0
Walnut, black 6.0-8.0
Willow 6.0-8.0
Vegetables
Asparagus 6.0-8.0
Bean, pole 6.0-7.5
Beet 6.0-7.5
Broccoli 6.0-7.0
Brussels sprout 6.0-7.5
Cabbage 6.0-7.0
Carrot 5.5-7.0
Cauliflower 5.5-7.5
Celery 5.8-7.0
Chive 6.0-7.0
Cucumber 5.5-7.0
Garlic 5.5-8.0
Kale 6.0-7.5
Lettuce 6.0-7.0
Pea, sweet 6.0-7.5
Pepper, sweet 5.5-7.0
Potato 4.8-6.5
Pumpkin 5.5-7.5
Radish 6.0-7.0
Spinach 6.0-7.5
Squash, crookneck 6.0-7.5
Squash, Hubbard 5.5-7.0
Tomato 5.5-7.5
Flowers
Alyssum 6.0-7.5
Aster, New England 6.0-8.0
Baby’s breath 6.0-7.0
Bachelor’s button 6.0-7.5
Bee balm 6.0-7.5
Begonia 5.5-7.0
Black-eyed Susan 5.5-7.0
Bleeding heart 6.0-7.5
Canna 6.0-8.0
Carnation 6.0-7.0
Chrysanthemum 6.0-7.5
Clematis 5.5-7.0
Coleus 6.0-7.0
Coneflower, purple 5.0-7.5
Cosmos 5.0-8.0
Crocus 6.0-8.0
Daffodil 6.0-6.5
Dahlia 6.0-7.5
Daisy, Shasta 6.0-8.0
Daylily 6.0-8.0
Delphinium 6.0-7.5
Foxglove 6.0-7.5
Geranium 6.0-8.0
Gladiolus 5.0-7.0
Hibiscus 6.0-8.0
Hollyhock 6.0-8.0
Hyacinth 6.5-7.5
Iris, blue flag 5.0-7.5
Lily-of-the-valley 4.5-6.0
Lupine 5.0-6.5
Marigold 5.5-7.5
Morning glory 6.0-7.5
Narcissus, trumpet 5.5-6.5
Nasturtium 5.5-7.5
Pansy 5.5-6.5
Peony 6.0-7.5
Petunia 6.0-7.5
Phlox, summer 6.0-8.0
Poppy, oriental 6.0-7.5
Rose, hybrid tea 5.5-7.0
Rose, rugosa 6.0-7.0
Snapdragon 5.5-7.0
Sunflower 6.0-7.5
Tulip 6.0-7.0
Zinnia 5.5-7.0

Submitted by craig killy on February 7, 2015 – 3:02pm

Last autumn I applied dried chicken manure (25 oz. over 30 sq. ft.) to my garden and worked it in w/compost I than put a ground cover of leaves over the winter. I intend to grow vegetables i.e. Tomatos, Beans, and some flowers. Will my soil be too sour and if so what can can I apply to counteract the effects?

Submitted by The Editors on February 10, 2015 – 11:00am

Hi, Craig, that sounds like an enviable mix. Kudos! As for the pH, this is a different matter. Get yourself a test kit at a nursery or garden supply store (they are relatively inexpensive at a couple of dollars or even less) and check your garden. We would not want to hazard a guess at the current pH; best to know for sure.
Tomatoes like a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 and beans, being companions to tomatoes, generally like it about the same (6.0 to 7.5). Flowers can vary a bit but most are in the same range. See here for details: http://www.almanac.com/content…

Submitted by Cole Fisher on September 7, 2014 – 6:15pm

Ok so I just added compost manure to the garden for when i plant the rest of my fall vegetables. Can I plant them in the soil the same week that I added my compost? will the compost harm them or should I wait a little while before planting them?

Submitted by The Editors on September 8, 2014 – 9:36am

As long as you have worked the compost into your soil, there is no reason to delay planting.

Submitted by Jack Willsonile on May 5, 2015 – 12:39am

As long as you have worked the compost into your soil, there is no reason to delay planting.

Submitted by Lance Jones on May 29, 2014 – 10:13am

Folks…..there is some bad news out there. Check out on YouTube “What in the World Are They Spraying?” Or….”Look Up”.

We are being bombarded by “Chemtrails” (Geo-Engineering”) which is making our souls turn alkaline. I have lost almost all my valley Locust Trees, the Oregon Grape isn’t happy and don’t know why the Pines are dying. Nobody hardly knows. Look into it……we have to stop this! Planes fly over leaving white stripes that spread out and cover our skies…..leaving aluminum, barium and strontium (reports even of flouride) in out soil and water. Spread the word, tell your government to STOP!! Its global…..sinister. They say its for Global warming, but it actually keeps the heat at night like a blanket. Monsanto has applied for a patent of Aluminum and Drought resistant seeds. They are manipulating the weather! Sorry for the bad news…..

Submitted by Lance Jones on May 29, 2014 – 10:21am

sorry for the typos and the news….SOILS are turning alkaline. Let me know if anyone is aware of this! Our young black locust trees are all dead in ONE YEAR…. not one leaf. And the older ones barely have any leaves and they have been here for many many years, always healthy. Bumbles bees have been coming here for over 20 years. I did research and Black Locusts are highly sensitive to ALUMINUM! Greenhouses are now a very good idea….I just hope the Pines aren’t dying from this too. They like acid soils….???? This is here in NE Washington.

Submitted by suzanne h. on June 18, 2014 – 4:52pm

Thank you for the post! Yet another worry. I have walked through patches of clover, planted organic comphrey and herbs which flower heavily all summer AND NOT ONE HONEY BEE! Only a few bumble bees…and no wasps, either. Three years ago there were handfuls of them. When I was a kid, the clover was alive with honey bees. If everyone could just take a second and notice what is happening. Something is terribly wrong right now.

Submitted by Jan TT on July 5, 2018 – 6:57am

Bees are affected by climate change and chemicals sprayed onto crops and plants in our gardens. Only solution is go go “organic” by using natural compost to enrich the soil and natural products to deter bugs and pests, such as marigolds or garlic around rose bushes to deter aphids, and other companion planting. We need to treat our planet with respect or it will die – and us along with it.

Submitted by Joan on January 29, 2019 – 10:20am

I agree Jan about treating our planet with respect. I care for a 3 acre floral garden. I use very little chemical in the gardens. Only when needed, I have volunteers that help me weed by hand and only when the boss pushes for spraying do I do it carefully and limited mostly to walkways. We use peat, pine fines and buy compost from a local nursery.
The absolute keys to attracting pollinators is to plant the right plants. We have so many butterflies, bees, wasps, birds, and little critters. When I’m in the gardens I don’t feel like there is a problem in the world.
I’m not a big believer in climate change, I’ve been around long enough to see we have cycles and some of the endangered creatures are returning. I try to judge by this method. I could be proven wrong one day but for now this is what I see.

Submitted by nathan2011 on February 11, 2014 – 6:05am

hi ther have done a ph test to my soil an its come back at 7.0 an other places on the plot are 6.5 i have some veg that is between 6.0 an 7.0 wich area would i be best to plant them in higher end of plants ph or the lower end of ther ph for the best yield

Submitted by Kathy T. on December 6, 2012 – 10:11am

In Oct. I placed my own composit on my Raspberry plants. Then in Nov, spread some pine needles on the bed. I have some Manure in a bag from the store. Would it be safe to spread a little of that also? I have had a decrease in my rasp. production in the last few years so I have been trying to figure out what the cause is. I would appreciate any help. Also how can I have the soil tested?

Submitted by The Editors on December 6, 2012 – 4:23pm

You can usually get a soil test kit from your local county extension office, and they will recommend any amendments that your soil may need. Wait to add the manure until you get the results from the soil test. Also make sure that your raspberries are not too crowded. You may need to prune out some of the old plants.

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Optimum Soil pH Levels for Trees, Shrubs, Vegetables, and Flowers

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